
Water Heater Repair
If the leak is coming from the tank itself rather than a fitting, shut the cold inlet and cut the gas or the breaker before anything else happens.
When this becomes an emergency
- A puddle spreading from under the tank or the drain pan.
- Banging or popping from the tank as it heats.
- Hot water that has gone brown or smells strongly of sulphur.
- A pilot that goes out repeatedly through the winter.
What a pro does
The plumber's first job is separating a repairable fault from a finished tank. Fittings, valves and controls can all be replaced. A rusted-through shell can't be, and saying otherwise just wastes everyone's afternoon and leaves the same puddle on the floor. Beyond that the checks follow the fuel and the water. Gas units get the thermocouple, the gas valve and the draft tested, and draft deserves attention in this climate because a tightly sealed old house with a modern boiler already competing for air can leave an atmospheric heater unable to vent properly on a still cold night. Electric units point at elements and thermostats. Then the water itself, which in New York varies enormously between a village supply and a private well two roads apart. Hard water from limestone ground around Syracuse and the Finger Lakes bakes scale onto the bottom of a tank, and iron-bearing well water coats elements and stains fixtures. Both shorten a heater's life in ways the owner never sees. The anode rod gets pulled where it can be, since a spent rod on a tank in its second decade explains most of what follows. Replacement includes venting, the relief discharge and any expansion the system needs.
Frequently asked questions
Keep going
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